Sumatra, Indonesia.

For now, hope still walks softly through the jungle. Whether it endures depends on what we choose to protect.

Powerful yet rarely seen, the tiger is a creature of silence and patience.

Confirming new life in the wild is never easy. Tigresses are intensely protective mothers, keeping their cubs hidden for many months. The forest itself becomes their shelter, concealing the smallest paws beneath thick undergrowth. Often, young cubs remain unseen, their existence known only through subtle signs, a distant call, a fleeting shadow, a brief image captured in the quiet of night.

The absence of sightings does not mean the absence of life. In the forest, much happens beyond human view.

Encouragingly, observations from remote jungle regions suggest that in some areas where forests remain intact, tiger numbers appear stable. When natural habitats are undisturbed and prey is plentiful, the forest continues its ancient rhythms.

New life has also been welcomed in carefully managed wildlife environments, where planned breeding programs help safeguard genetic diversity. Recently, two tiger cubs were born under human care, small, striped bundles of strength and instinct. Their arrival brought quiet celebration and renewed hope.

Their father had once been injured and later recovered under supervision. Their mother was born within the same protected environment. Together, they represent continuity, a reminder that with care and patience, life endures.

Across Asia, the tiger has long symbolised courage, strength, and protection. For centuries, it has appeared in art, folklore, and storytelling, not only as a predator, but as a guardian spirit of the forest. Its presence has always stirred human imagination.

Yet beyond symbolism, the tiger is simply what it has always been: a solitary hunter, moving through dense vegetation, perfectly adapted to its surroundings. It needs space, food, water, and quiet territory in which to roam.

When forests remain whole, balance is possible.

Each cub born, whether hidden deep in the wild or nurtured in managed care, represents renewal. Survival is not dramatic. It is gradual. It unfolds quietly beneath the canopy, one generation at a time.

The future of the tiger rests not in grand gestures, but in steady protection of natural landscapes. Where forests stand, life continues.

In the humid stillness of the jungle, where filtered light falls across leaf litter and unseen creatures move through shadow, hope still walks softly.

Whether it continues to do so depends on the space we allow the wild to remain wild.

Written with respect for the forest and the lives it shelters.

Sumatra, Indonesia.

This island was her last kingdom. Since the injured tiger returned to the wild, the forest has kept her secrets. No human eye has witnessed her cubs beneath the leaves. But hope remains. It always does in the jungle. Only the unblinking eye of a camera may one day reveal a flicker of stripes in the night, proof that life continues where silence reigns. Elsewhere, life unfolded in different forms.

Under gentle human care, a tigress gave birth to her cubs. The first arrived quietly, small, blind, and roaring with life. Months later, a second followed. Two fragile beginnings, stepping softly into the world. Names and ceremonies faded into memory; what mattered was the rhythm of life, continuing quietly beneath the canopy.

Their father had once been injured and had endured hardship. He survived, carrying scars that whispered of resilience. Through him, the future breathed again.

Caught by a silent camera

With the birth of the cubs, the sanctuary became a haven, a place where life could continue, protected, nurtured, and watched with care. Humans, too, could be guardians, not only observers.

Beyond the fences, in the remote jungle where rain hammered the leaves and shadows shifted silently, signs of renewal emerged. Camera traps captured fleeting images of striped ghosts moving through the dark. In protected places, the forest whispered of life continuing, slow, uncertain, but real.

The tiger’s world is one of patience and quiet strength. Mothers hide their young, teaching them the rhythms of the forest. Cubs grow strong among the leaves and vines, their stripes darkening, claws sharpening against the earth. Life unfolds in moments often unseen by human eyes.

The jungle endures. Somewhere in the depths of the island, the older tiger moves silently through ferns and shadow. Somewhere else, two cubs grow stronger, learning the ways of the wild. The story of these tigers is not written in headlines or statistics, but in the quiet persistence of life, the continuation of generations, and the resilience of the forest itself.

For now, the last tigers of this island still breathe beneath the trees, moving through shadows, teaching us patience, hope, and reverence.

Written with respect for the forest and the lives it shelters.







Indonesia.

Nestled high in the heart of North Sumatra, there is a place so breathtaking it feels like a dream, called Lake Toba. Surrounded by a protective ring of emerald mountains, the lake stretches endlessly, shimmering like polished glass under the changing sky, the largest and most beautiful lake in Indonesia.

The air here is cool and crisp, even in the warmth of the afternoon sun. Time slows down, and there is a hush to the world as though the mountains are holding their breath, guarding something sacred. The lake lies still, but there is something about it, something haunting, something eternal.

To stand by its edge is to feel something stir inside you. A sense of wonder, longing you can’t quite name.

Because Lake Toba was not always just a lake, it was once the setting of a love so deep, so powerful, and a betrayal so tragic that it changed the course of nature itself.

Here is the story of how it all began.


A story of a man, a woman, and a secret that would ripple through generations, like waves across the water.

Each morning, just as the first light spilt over the mountains, the fisherman walked alone, quiet, with weathered hands and kind eyes that had grown used to solitude. As he cast his net into the still waters with little expectation, save for the simple hope of enough fish to carry him through another day.

But that morning was different.

The sky was soft with early morning light, and the lake shimmered like liquid gold. As the fisherman pulled in his net, suddenly he saw a golden fish, unlike anything he’d ever seen. The scales sparkled like sunlight on water, luminous and surreal, as though they had drifted in from another world.

He reached for it gently, almost reverently, just as his hands closed around it, something extraordinary happened.

“Please do not hurt me, said the fish, with a voice soft, melodic, filled with sorrow and something ancient.

“I’m not truly a fish,” the voice continued, “but a woman cursed long ago.”

He stared in disbelief, heart pounding. Then, without a sound, the shimmering body in his hands began to change. Brightness swirled around her, warm and blinding, and in a heartbeat, she was there.

The fisherman froze.

A woman.

The current image has no alternative text. The file name is: image.png

Radiant, ethereal, with eyes that held the depth of centuries of sadness that reached into his soul. Hair falling in waves like the water around them, and her presence was both fragile and powerful, like something out of a forgotten dream.

He had never seen anyone so beautiful. Though neither of them knew it yet, from that moment on, everything would change.

She smiled at him, her eyes soft with gratitude. “Because you showed me kindness,” she said gently, “I’m free now. I could stay with you, and we could make a happy life together. He listened, completely still, as her voice lowered into something almost fragile. “Promise you won’t tell anyone I was a fish.”

And they began their life together. It was simple, but it was real. A small house built by hand, a garden where they planted vegetables, and the sound of shared laughter echoing through the days. Joy in the little things, in morning coffee, hands dirtied by soil, quiet glances that said more than words ever could.

Then came their child, a beautiful boy, with bright eyes and a laugh that filled the room like sunshine. He was interested in many thangs, clever, wonderfully mischievous, chased butterflies, sometimes forgot his chores, but had a good heart, and his parents loved him very much.

Years passed in the blink of an eye. Then one day, everything changed.

The fisherman returned home late, weary to the bone. The sun had been merciless, the work harder than usual, and he had waited, hungry and aching, for the lunch his son had forgotten to bring. Frustration rose like a wave inside him, and before he could stop himself, the words tumbled out.

“Lazy boy! You are nothing but the child of a fish!”

The words hung in the air like shattered glass. Time stopped.

The wind fell still, the trees stood frozen, and the light dimmed, as though the world itself had heard. And she had heard too.

From the doorway, the woman he had loved beyond reason stood silent. Her eyes, once filled with warmth, were now wide with hurt. And behind them, a deep, ancient sadness had returned, like something that had only been sleeping all these years.

He knew, in that instant, what he had done and that he could never take it back.

Tears welled in her eyes, soft, shimmering, and full of sorrow. She stood still for a long moment, looking at the man she had once trusted with her secret, the man she had built a life with.

Her voice was barely more than a whisper, but it carried the weight of everything they had shared. “You promised, and now the secret is broken.The pain in her eyes was not anger, it was deeper than that. It was heartbreak.

She knelt, gathered her little boy in her arms, and held him close. There was a gentleness in her touch, even as her heart broke in two. “I need you to know who I truly am,” she said softly. “I was once something else, and the magic that kept me here is now gone.”

She kissed his forehead one last time, and then, like the last breath of a dream at dawn, she vanished.

The sky darkened almost instantly, turning a cold, ominous grey. Thunder cracked like a broken heart across the mountains, and rain poured down in torrents, as if the heavens themselves were grieving. Rivers rose violently, breaking their banks, and the ground trembled with the force of something far greater than man.

The fisherman ran outside, shouting her name into the wind, desperate to turn back time. But it was too late.

Water surged into the valley, swallowing fields, trees and houses. He watched helplessly as the world he knew disappeared beneath the rising flood. All was gone except for one hill, the place where their home had once stood.

That hill, now quiet and alone, remained above the water, and it became an island, still, serene, and breathtaking in the very heart of the vast lake that had formed Lake Toba.

And so, from one act of kindness, a secret, and a single broken promise, the world was given one of its most beautiful lakes.

But for those who visit, if you listen closely to the wind, you might still hear the whisper of love lost, and a promise that was once made under the mountain sky.

Written with respect for the forest and the lives it shelters.

COBRAS IN PARADISE

Sumatra, Indonesia.

From Paradise for King and Spitting Cobras to Oil Palm Plantations, this is nature’s exquisite balance.

I doubt if I will walk or cycle through Oil Palm plantations again, considering that there could be a King Cobra every couple of meters. Walking in the cool of the Oil Palms, my husband and I took a wrong turn, lost in the labyrinth of Oil Palm Plantations. Eventually late in the afternoon we found our way home. Later a friend told us that morning he had gone out onto his veranda to sit and enjoy his coffee. On his chair was coiled up King Cobra.

The King and Spitting Cobras are said to be the enigmatic guardians of the oil palm kingdom. The King Cobra helps balance the ecosystem by eating other venomous snakes.

Though the King Cobra is supposedly not an aggressive snake, they mainly enter the human settlements while chasing their prey. They are found in different colours from light green, black, brown and some combinations or mixture of all three. These snakes can see up to 300 feet away, so predators at a distance are at risk. Their sharp sight allows the King to thrive. A large King Cobra can look a full-grown human in the eyes, they are greatly feared by the locals, and can climb trees, swim, and move quickly across land.

King Cobra

Most King Cobras are out in the morning after the sun rises and the outside temperature is slightly warmer.

A King Cobra will travel approximately 0.33 meters per second on the ground. One day when my husband was cycling in the oil palms, he saw what he thought was a log across the foot path, rear up into a striking position as he rode past. How lucky he was, and from this day forward he has never cycled in the oil palms again.

Indonesia has the second-highest number of snakebite incidents worldwide, resulting in over eleven thousand deaths annually.

You can site a cobra a day if you look hard enough. Locals climb the oil palm to harvest the fruit to sell. Often, they will also get spat in the eyes by a Spitting Cobra coiled up in a tree.

Javan Spitting Cobra.

These snakes are a vulnerable species and have been placed on the IUCN red list for protection, due to a massive trade in its skin, meat, and body parts.

A single snake bite contains enough venom to kill 20 people and can paralyse and kill animals as large as elephants.

The local people have learned to navigate the palm plantations with caution, respecting the Cobras’ territory, knowing the vital role they play in the ecosystem. So, the King and Spitting cobras of the oil palm plantations grow.

The King Cobra builds a nest of twigs and leaves, reaching a height of two feet. Within this nest it creates two distinct chambers, with the female residing in the upper chamber and diligently safeguarding her eggs in the lower chamber. This is a remarkably unique nest design, proving that the King Cobra may be one of the most intelligent snake species. My husband and I came across many of these mounds of twigs and leaves, not realising they possibly could be a King Cobras nest, with the female residing within.

Our responsibility is protecting the Earths biological riches. Like the mighty King and Spitting Cobras who are the guardians of the Oil Palm, creating natures exquisite balance. We must remind ourselves that we are entering their territory.

Written with respect for the forest and the lives it shelters.

Lombok, Indonesia.

Sengigi Beach Lombok

The moment we stepped out of Bali airport, we were surrounded by the liveliness of the crowds and the sweet aroma of frangipani and jasmine filling the air. I was looking forward to my next flight to Lombok, a quieter, more tranquil destination than Bali.

Lombok Airport felt quiet, calm, and peaceful. Even the roads weren’t busy, allowing my husband and I a leisurely drive to our lovely villa on the beach of Senggigi.

Senggigi Beach is known for its stunning sunsets, white sandy beaches, and crystal-clear waters that offer excellent opportunities for snorkelling, diving, and good surfing. The beach also has a vibrant nightlife scene, with bars and restaurants offering delicious local food and live music performances. Senggigi Beach is a gateway to various tourist attractions, such as the Gili Islands and Mount Rinjani.

Mount Rinjani

Ariel view of the Gili Islands

My husband and I hired a motorbike and explored the coastline of Lombok. It’s a quiet, calm rural island, with cows and goats grazing in small clearings near the roadside, scrawny chickens scratching in the rubbish, dogs scavenging for food or sleeping, and cats lolling about.

Lombok cows

The following day we took a trip with a local family to a traditional Sukarara Village where the women create traditional hand-woven textiles, known as “ikat”. Generations have produced these woven textiles using natural plant and vegetable dyes and traditional techniques. Sukarara Villages are encompassed by serene rice paddies and lush cotton fields, in addition to their rich textile legacy.

The Sasak people are the indigenous people of Lombok, known for their unique culture, language, and customs, predominantly Muslim, but their culture is heavily influenced by animism and Hinduism.

The rich cultural heritage reflects their traditional architecture, music, dance, and cuisine. The Sasak people also have a unique style of music and dance, with performances featuring traditional instruments and colourful costumes.

Their houses are built from bamboo and thatch, with an open structure that allows for natural ventilation. The floors are made from clay, then periodically polished with wet cow dung, and left to dry. The reason for this is to ward off mosquitoes.

Traditional Sukarara Village

Sasak women weaving

Sasak women

Sasak Tribal Women

Sasak Men

Rice paddies and cotton plant

One of the most iconic aspects of Sasak culture is their cuisine, which features spicy flavours and aromatic herbs. Some popular dishes include ayam taliwang (grilled chicken with spicy sauce and plecing kangkung (water spinach with spicy tomato sauce). We experienced this for lunch with our Indonesian friends.

Sasak culture has a long and rich history dating back a thousand years, believed to have migrated to Lombok from Java and other nearby islands around the 13th century. Over time, they developed their unique culture, language, and customs, influenced by the Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms that once existed in the region. The Sasak people also had contact with the Chinese, Arabs, and Europeans, further enriching their culture. Despite these influences, they preserved their unique identity and traditions over the centuries. Today, the Sasak culture is part of the cultural heritage of Lombok and is celebrated and preserved through festivals, music, dance, and other cultural events.

Another story told by our guide at the Sasak village was that the Sasak people intermarry with their cousins. The women remain in the Sasak village, never leaving. Their job is to do the weaving. Sometimes a Sasak man will meet a woman outside the village, he will kidnap her and bring her into the village. They will stand under “The Tree of Love” in the centre of the village to make their marriage official. These women from outside the village, once they enter, will adopt the traditions of the Sasak tribe, and never leave the village. This tradition is only adopted by the Sasak people who choose to still live in ancient traditional villages. A tradition that dates back at least four hundred years.

A young man from Lombok explained to me about seaworms, which are a delicacy of the Sasak people. Rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals, believed to have medicinal properties that can help boost the immune system and improve overall health. They are typically eaten raw or lightly cooked and served as a snack or appetizer.

The Sasak Tribe places great importance on the Bau Nyala ceremony, a time-honoured event that carries immense sacred significance. This ritual is deeply rooted in the folklore of the southern Central Lombok region.

While not everyone may find the idea of eating seaworms appealing, they are a significant part of Lombok’s culinary heritage and continue to be enjoyed by locals and adventurous visitors alike.

So the story of Mandalika was told to me by this young man from Lombok.

Statue of Princess Mandalika

“Putri Mandalika was a beautiful princess who transformed into a nyale worm and appeared once a year on the enchanting shores of Lombok,” he said.

It’s fascinating how the nyale worm, a legendary creature that is highly valued and venerated by the people of Lombok, is believed to represent the transformation of a gorgeous princess who was once fought for by several princes from different kingdoms within the regions.

“Putri Mandalika is the daughter of King Tonjang Beru and Dewi Seranting. This king was famous for his wisdom, people loved him very much because they lived a prosperous life. Princess Mandalika lived in a royal palace and was respected until adulthood,” he continued.

“Princess Mandalika grew into a beautiful, charming woman. Her beauty spread throughout Lombok, and Princes from various Kingdoms such as Johor Kingdom, Lipur Kingdom, Pane Kingdom, Kuripan Kingdom, Daha Kingdom, and Beru Kingdom, wanted to marry her,” he said.

“Knowing this made the Princess desperate because if she chose one prince, there would be wars and battles in the land of Sasak. Some Kingdoms even put up a senggeger, black magic used to attract women. This practice of using senggeger to attract women, including Princesses, often had unintended consequences. Instead of winning the Princess’s heart, it made her even more distraught.

After much thought, the Princess invited all princes and their people to meet at Kuta Beach Lombok on the 20th day of the 10th month, according to the calculation of the month of Sasak before dawn. The invitation was welcomed by all Princes and their subjects, and on that date, they flocked to the location of the invitation.

After a while, Princess Mandalika finally appeared, carried by the soldiers who guarded her. Then she stopped and stood on a rock on the shore. After saying her intention to receive all the princes and the people, the Princess finally jumped into the sea. All the people who were looking for her did not find her. Eventually, a clew of colourful worms appeared, revered by the locals as a manifestation of Princess Mandalika,” he said.

Mandalika proclaimed that she would offer herself to all the princes. “I can’t choose one among the princes. Destiny wills me to be something you can enjoy together, uniting you all in love and affection, in the month and date when I appear in another form of myself on the surface of this sea,” she said. These were Princess Mandalika’s last words before jumping into the sea. So, this tradition lives on.

The following day my husband and I took a ride into the hills. Crossing a small bridge, we came across a woman sitting on the side of the road under a tree, crushing rocks and hitting one against another, a difficult task for a woman. Her skin was rough, her hands calloused, a testament to years of hard labour working outside in the sun. Her face etched with deep lines and wrinkles. She appears strong and resilient despite the toll her work has taken on her body. Below the road was a dry riverbed filled with rocks. Some women collect these rocks and pile them on the side of the road, while another would sit and crush them into smaller stones. Despite how monotonous and tiresome it may feel, this woman continued to crush rocks every day without fail. These crushed rocks are sold and used for building houses or gravel for roads. The women use the money to purchase clothing, nourishing meals, and provide education for their children. It made us feel sad seeing this woman working so hard. Giving her a gift and seeing the big smile on her face made our day more meaningful.

On our last day, we took the ferry across to Bali, a trip of three hours. The boat was buzzing with the contagious energy of adventurous young travellers from far-reaching corners of the world, free and uncommitted to responsibilities. They had no fear of travelling alone in an unpredictable world.

Arriving in Bali, we headed to our accommodation in Sanur. Walking along the seashore, we saw many Westerners who have made Bali their home. Dining at restaurants, walking their dogs, or jogging along the beach. They had chosen this island paradise lifestyle of health, meditation, and tranquillity without the stresses of the large cities of the Western world.

The following morning, with a touch of nostalgia, we departed from Bali, leaving behind the intoxicating scent of frangipani and jasmine, and the tranquillity of Lombok.

Sumatra, Indonesia.

Sumatra, the largest Ireland in Indonesia, is an island of jungle, wild animals, wild rivers, and an unforgiving climate. The friendly people of Sumatra offer an array of spicy exotic dishes, loads of delicious seafood and tropical fruits. Their food is always fresh and cooked from scratch, blending the rich flavours of spices themselves. As I walk through the streets of Sumatra’s villages and cities, the smells of exotic spicy dishes waft through the air.

Active volcanoes and hilly rainforests dominate western Sumatra. The colourful city of Bukittinggi is a wonderful place to explore, as well as the villages and culture of the indigenous Minang people. The steep curved-roof architecture of their houses is seen throughout the area.

Due to the heavy tropical rainfall, especially during monsoon season, high pitched roofs help to prevent leeks, allowing the heavy rains to wash off the roofs. The large overhanging eaves help to keep the rain out of the houses, as well as providing shade for the house, as the tropical heat can be rather relenting.

COLOURFUL BUKITTINGI

Padang food or Minang food consists of Gulai (curry), Lado (chilli pepper) and Bareh (rice). It is the cuisine of the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra and is among the most popular food to eat. Many locals prefer to eat rice by hand along with the dishes that are served with it. They believe Padang food tastes more delicious this way, but I use a spoon and fork.

Nasi padang , one of the best taste food from indonesia royalty free stock image

Nasi Padang is one of the best tasting foods from Indonesia

Restaurants in Masakan Padang are easily identified be the way they present their food. Plates are carefully piled for dry food, and juicy dishes like curries are placed in big metal bowls or trays. Plates are displayed in the shop window and visible from the street. Most of these restaurants are open from morning till evening, serving the food throughout the day. The food is served at room temperature and the rice is kept warm.

DELICIOUS FISH AND PRAWNS COOKED OVER A FIRE

Masakan Padang cuisine’s most popular curry is made with unripe jackfruit (gulai Nangka) cooked with coconut milk, creating a rich delicious curry with a mix of sweet, spicy and fresh flavours. This food is also sold at the local markets.

Hidang is when all the dishes available are served in small plates that are placed at the table, sometimes amounting to ten different dishes. At the end of the meal, you just pay for what you have eaten. This is a popular way to eat when there is a group of people, family, or friends, as the portions served are much bigger.

MARTABAK PIRING WITH SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

Medan being Indonesia’s fourth-largest city after Jakarta, Surabaya and Bandung, and the largest Indonesian city outside of Java, is located on Sumatra’s northern coast. Batak and Chinese culture blend seamlessly in its beautiful architecture and in its mouth-watering cuisine. Chinese fried noodles are served with a variety of chicken, pork, shrimp, squid, and scallops. Chewy and thicker rice noodles are used instead of regular noodles made of tapioca. 

Durian pancakes, a controversial food with a taste and smell to be desired, i can assure you, is loved for its sweet and bitter taste as well as its fragrant aroma. The cake is called Bika Ambon’, it’s not originated from Ambon which is a city in the far eastern part of Indonesia. It’s not clear why it is called this, but this chewy and sweet cake is good to eat while it is hot, but also perfect when cold. 

North Sumatra is the home of the “Batak” tribe. They have their own delicacies, including the most popular delicious dish ‘Babi Panggang Karo’, or ‘Karo Roasted Pork’, which is a local style of pork barbecue. The meat is crunchy, sweet, and served with steamed yam leaves, and green chilli sauce, as well as ‘tauco’, a sweet and salty red sauce made from fermented soybeans.

BATAK WOMAN DRESS IN BRIGHT JEWELLED COLOURS

Another delicious dish is ‘Bihun Bebek’, a rice noodle dish mainly served with duck, instead of chicken or shrimp. They are the thinnest and softest type of rice noodles that can be found in many Chinese restaurants in Medan.

CHINESE NOODLES AND FRIED DUCK

Palembang, the capital of Indonesia’s South Sumatran province, is a port city on the Musi River. The floating colourful markets and houses on stilts are spanned by the Ampera Bridge.

The fabrics of the Batak people are woven in bright colourful jewelled colours.

Tekwan, a traditional Indonesian fish ball soup, is believed to originate from the city of Palembang. The tekwan fish balls are made with fish paste, tapioca, and flour, then boiled or fried before being added to the soup. Usually it is fish or shrimp-based with mushrooms, dried lily flowers, with slices of jicama, garlic, and scallions which are served with the soup. Some varieties of the fish soup also include vermicelli noodles and other vegetables.

Sate, a dish from Padang, West Sumatra, is traditionally made with beef, consisting of pieces of marinated meat or offal, skewered and grilled. These are served in a thick, brown-coloured sauce, combined with meat broth, thickened with rice flour or rice water, and various spices, and served with ketupat (rice cakes).


Other varieties of sate including the Panjang version has more turmeric creating a vibrant yellow sauce, and Pariaman has more chilis giving it a typical red collour.

Rendang, a delicious Indonesian meat dish originates from the Minangkabau people in West Sumatra. Famous for its spiciness and long cooking procedure, often compared to Indian curry because of its unique flavours.

Spicy Beef Rendang


The theory about rendang, was that the generous use of spices and long cooking hours helped to preserve the meat in Indonesia’s hot tropical climate. So the need to preserve meat for longer periods began among the Minangkabau people. 

Minangkabau House

Aceh, named after its place of origin, Mie Aceh, is a spicy noodle dish in the form of a soup, topped with fried shallots, cucumber, and crackers. In addition to thick yellow noodles, it consists of beef, lamb, or seafood, as well as spring onions, garlic, bean sprouts, cabbage, and tomatoes.

Mieaceh Spicy Noodle Soup


The dish is generously seasoned with a spicy blend of chili peppers, shallots, garlic, cardamom, and cumin, and is commonly sold by street vendors or at hawker-style restaurants.

Pempek, a traditional Indonesian fish cake made with ground fish meat and tapioca, originates from the city of Palembang, in the South Sumatran province. The story goes, an old Palembang man who was tired of the traditional fried or grilled fish, thought of an innovative way to ground the meat, mix it with tapioca flour, and deep-fry it to get a crunchy and delicious snack.

Palembang Pempek


He would then cycle through the city selling the fish cakes to Palembang citizens. Over time, pempek was recognized as a praise-worthy snack, and today it is a traditional Indonesian delicacy. These round or rectangular cakes are usually steamed, then just before serving, fried in vegetable oil, and cut into bite-sized pieces. 

Laksan is another dish made from a mixture of ground fish meat and sago flour. This dish is usually eaten during religious festivities. The dough is shaped, boiled, and drained then finally simmered with coconut milk and some spices, consisting of chilies, shallots, garlic, bay leaves, and galangal. Sprinkle it with fried shallots, to make it more flavourful.

Kemplang, a type of fish cracker made from the same fish dough, is boiled, thinly sliced then dried in the sun. The chips are fried to a crisp and served with soupy dishes or fried noodles.

Kemplang crackers

Makuba cake, a favourite dish among the Palembang people, has a fluffy, delicate texture and the flavour is sugary, yet luscious. Duck eggs and condensed milk are used to create the primary layers of this dish, coming together through a slow cooking process of eight hours. This deliciously luscious dessert is often used as an offering and presented in local celebrations.

TRADITIONAL MAKUBA CAKE

Mie celor, a typical Indonesian dish of yellow noodles, is doused in coconut gravy and served with shrimp, boiled egg, and bean sprouts. Occasionally topped with celery, spring onion, chicken, and fried shallots.

MIE CELOR SPICY NOODLE

Martabak har, both legendary and phenomenal, is unlike other typical egg dishes. It is soaked in a curry gravy, a yellow broth comprising of turmeric, nutmeg flower, cinnamon, chilies, curry leaves, diced potatoes, and coconut milk. A vinegar sauce can also be added for a variation in flavour.

Kue srikaya, an egg-based cake found throughout Palembang and traditional markets, is made from a batter of eggs, sugar, and coconut milk, and has sweet and savoury flavour. The green colour is obtained from aromatic pandan leaves which the cake is put into and steamed for about fifteen minutes.

Celimpungan, also very similar to tekwan, is bigger in shape. It is simmered in a coconut milk gravy with turmeric, pepper, and bay leaves giving the dish an enriching flavour.

Model, a soup dish, consists of fish balls, rice vermicelli, and aromatic clear shrimp broth. Sometimes including ear mushrooms, cucumber, prawns, fried shallots, and served with vinegar sauce.

Although Palembang’s food comprises mainly of fish dough, coconut milk, and vinegar sauce, it is still delicious.

My favourite dishes consist of spicy, chilli, juicy plump prawns served on basmati rice, and covered in a delicious aromatic spicy sauce. Freshly caught fish and large fresh water prawns cooked over a fire, along with an assortment of smaller dishes consisting of spicy vegetables and other delicious delicacies. Indonesia is certainly the spice centre of rich flavours.

A MOMENT IN TIME

Being in lockdown for two and half years, and away from my husband, was quite a challenge. Many memories have been created over those years in South Africa and will remain cherished memories over time.

Late November 2021, my husband flew back to South Africa. We took a trip into the midlands of KwaZulu Natal, to spend quality time with family. Wake each morning to misty rain, the smell of damp earth, and a ginger cat. He was skittish and rather wary of humans. Only when it suited him did he cuddle up to me.

I would call the ginger cat and he would give a quiet meow for a tomcat, then rub himself against my legs. He slept on our bed a couple of times, then took to sleeping on a chair inside. During the day he would sleep on the garden steps and sometimes in the garden amongst the flowers, watching me from a distance. Being partly feral partly domesticated, I wondered whether he would find himself a master, or would he revert to being feral once again?

Another pandemic variant, another lockdown, as we entered the New Year of 2022. Flights were delayed as we watched the lockdowns take place around the world. Panic set in, wondering how and when my husband would be able to return to Indonesia.

By January 10th my husband was able to fly out of South Africa, in a roundabout way via a couple of countries before ending back in Indonesia. Who thought it would take a month to get back to Indonesia!

Now March 2022, floods, and total devastation in KwaZulu Natal. Houses, roads, and bridges were destroyed; families and animals were lost in raging waters and mudslides. What more can we endure! How many more bridges do we have to cross to get to the other side, and once again, start to live a normal life as best we can!

During these past couple of years in South Africa, I have spent precious time with family and learned about the true priorities of life. To cherish our loved ones, as we never know what tomorrow will bring. Now finally 2022 is the year I will leave South Africa, and continue my journey back in Indonesia.

This quote from “Lessons taught by Life”, really spoke to me.

You can smile because they lived,

or cry because they’re gone.

Close your eyes and pray they will

come back, or you can open your eyes and

see all that they left for you. Your heart can

be sad because you can’t see them, or

full of the love you shared.

You can forget about tomorrow and

live for yesterday, or you can be happy for

tomorrow because of yesterday. You can

cherish their memory,

or remember only that they have gone.

You can cry and not accept,

or you can do what they

would want. Open your heart and smile,

love…and go on.

What is important to me, is living a life of purpose and meaning. Living my life in a way I want to be remembered, and looking back at the end of my life having no regrets.

Diane Ackerman once quoted, “I don’t want to get to the end of my life and find I have lived just the length of it. I want to have lived the breadth of it as well.”

No matter how many bridges I still must cross in my life, the past two and a half years was only a moment in time.

WILD RIVERS OF INDONESIA

Indonesia.

Rahcmat paddles his small wooden canoe up the narrow tributaries of the mighty Kampar River, tall dense walls of thick jungle tower on either side of him, with sounds of chirping birds and the high pitched cry of a fish eagle. Slowly, he paddles his way towards the tall reeds to retrieve his fishing trap. The local fishermen drop their fish traps amongst the tall reeds, checking their catch each morning. During the day it becomes too hot and humid. The trap is a large box shape framed with net. “Fishing and farming provide food for our families and brings in enough money to sustain our livelihoods,” said Rahcmat.

FISH TRAPS

The Kampar River forms the backbone of the island along its west coast. Meandering through, spilling into the Malacca Strait on the east coast. Local community groups work at making forest and river sustainable for its inhabitants.

Local Rangers help protect the reserve, plant native species to replenish the natural rainforests, and not to overfish the delicate ecosystem. Sustaining the fish species also sustains their livelihoods. Surrounding villages need education, and employment which is all part of the process, creating a revitalised landscape where the people can live in harmony with nature.

THE REMARKABLE WORKMANSHIP OF THESE WOODEN BOATS IS PASSED DOWN FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION
SMALL RIVER BOAT
LARGE FISHING BOAT WITH ONBOARD MOTOR
DELICIOUS DEEP FRIED CRISPY FISH
SMALL DRIED FISH AT THE MARKET

Drying fish is a great way to preserve large quantities, especially in a developing country such as Indonesia. The fish can be preserved between six to twelve months.

The elders stay in the fishing huts on the river and do all the fishing. Later in the day, the younger people will come to the fishing huts to collect the catch and take it back to the village and markets to sell. Often you will see locals on the side of the road with a makeshift wooden kiosk selling dried fish.

FISHERMAN’S HUT TUCKED AWAY IN THE JUNGLE
FISHERMAN’S HUT

“In the past the fish was so large that one man alone could not lift a Wallago fish. I was strong and young then”, said Rahcmat. His smile fading on his sun wrinkled face.

LOCAL VILLAGE ON THE RIVER

These fishermen and their families live in wooden houses on stilts due to rising tides, along the river’s edge. There are thirty households along the river who have relied on this souce of income for many years. “We catch Bagrid catfish, sheatfish, minnows, Wallago, which are much smaller now, and there are many snakeheads,” said Rahcmat. “Women join in the fishing as well”.

“In the rivers giant catfish and stingray are still found and sold for their meat. When I see a very large shadow in my net or under my boat, I know it is the giant stingray.”

GIANT SNAKE HEAD
COOKED EEL
DRIED EEL AT LOCAL MARKET
GRILLED EEL
GIANT STINGRAY

Rahcmat continued his story. “Giant stingrays weighing over eight hundred pounds live in these rivers. They grow much bigger than the giant catfish,” spreading his arms as wide as he could. This is larger than a mountain gorilla. Fishermen don’t fish for the giant stingrays, but occasionally they get caught in our nets. Giant stingrays are great fighters if they are hooked and can drag boats around the river for hours.”

To smoke fish, the locals use non-resinous hardwood such as malaswood, komodan, rambutan or coconut husk or shell. This will produce quality smoked fish. Softer, rotting, or mouldy wood produce smoke containing a chemical compound, that causes undesired aroma and smells.

SMOKING FISH
SMOKED FISH AT A LOCAL MARKET
LIVE FISH ALSO SOLD AT LOCAL MARKETS
ALWAYS FRIENDLY ALWAYS HAPPY
CASTING HIS LARGE GILL-NET

On the wide rivers Gill-nets and hooks are used. The wide rivers wind their way through the jungles where they end up as narrow tributaries surrounded by dense jungle. They are so narrow that the wooden canoes can just manage to manoeuvre up them.

There are many freshwater fish in the wild rivers. Waders are tiny fish found in freshwater rivers, ponds, and reservoirs. Waders are quite popular in Indonesia, especially Java, and usually consumed by coating in a little flour then frying. Fried wader is crunchy, savory, and eaten with sambal and rice. Tilapia, also called Nila, are eaten by locals, and small crayfish which are delicious.

BABY CATFISH
DEEP FRIED TILAPIA
GRILLED SALTED TILAPIA

The male catfish are smaller and narrower than the female catfish. Its head is up to one inch larger and wider, and they have longer and brighter coloured fins. Female catfish can grow up to one inch larger than males and are wider and rounder than males by one and a half inches in the belly area for carrying eggs. Catfish are slippery and have a moustache. This fish has a soft, savoury flesh and is served with spicy chilli. The most favourite dish is Pecel Lele.

SPICY CHILLI CATFISH
CATFISH ON A BARBAQUE
SPICY CATFISH
GRILLED CATFISH

“In northern Thailand, on the Mekong, a giant catfish weighing six hundred and forty-six pounds was caught many years ago”. But there are a lot of much bigger fish out there,” smiled Rahcmat.

There are many other smaller freshwater fish such as Gurame Fish which live in rivers, ponds, and occasionally come to the surface of the water to breathe air. Cork Fish are also found in rivers, swamps, lakes, and waterways, eating various insects, small fish, frogs, and tadpoles. Often Cork Fish are carried away by flooding into the trenches around the homes or entering fish-raising ponds, becoming pests because they will prey on the pets in the pond.

KISSING GOURAMI

Nearly forty per cent of the Indonesian people live below the poverty line, so fishing is a way of life and provides an important food source for millions of people. It’s difficult to say which species are being caught where and in what quantities.

A SCENE ONE SEES ON A DAILY BASIS

A small bright red fish was discovered in a river which is thought to be endemic. It swims to the water surface only in the evening, feeding on algae and zooplanktons. During the day it swims to deeper waters. As some fish species disappear new species appear.

SMALL RED FISH

Who knows, these giants may reappear in the wild rivers of Indonesia once again.

Written with respect for the forest and the lives it shelters.

Sumatra, Indonesia.

How do we protect the wild places that still breathe around us?
How do we ensure that forests remain green, rivers run clear, and the voices of wild creatures continue to echo through the trees?

Perhaps the answer begins not in grand declarations, but in moments.

She arrived at the rehabilitation sanctuary as a young tiger, thin and injured. One of her paws had been badly damaged, and she carried the wary gaze of an animal who had known hardship too early in life. Patient hands tended her wounds. Quiet routines restored her strength. Slowly, she began to heal.

Months passed.

When the day of her release finally came, she had regained her strength. Her muscles were firm beneath her striped coat, her movements fluid and sure. Before returning her to the forest, she was gently sedated so a tracking collar could be fitted, a simple measure to ensure her safety as she adjusted once more to the wild.

She was placed in a temporary forest enclosure, allowing her time to reacquaint herself with the dense humidity, the unfamiliar sounds, the scent of leaf litter and damp earth. The air was thick and warm. Cicadas hummed in the canopy. Somewhere in the distance, thunder rolled.

When the gate was opened, she paused.

For a brief moment she looked back, wide amber eyes, alert and fierce. A low growl vibrated from her chest, not in anger, but in instinct. Then, with powerful grace, she leapt forward.

Her body stretched and gathered in long, effortless strides. Earth scattered beneath her hind paws. Birds burst upward in startled flight as she disappeared into the green embrace of the forest.

There was a final rustle of leaves.

Then silence.

A deep roar echoed faintly in the distance, a sound that seemed less like farewell and more like belonging.

She was home.

Tears blurred my vision. The jungle heat pressed heavily against my skin, the scent of rain rising as the afternoon storm approached. It was a bittersweet moment, joy for her freedom, and the quiet ache of knowing I would never see her again.

Saving one animal may seem small in a vast world. But standing there, listening to the forest close around her, it did not feel small at all.

Wild creatures do not ask for much. They need space. Food. Water. The freedom to move, to hunt, to raise their young beneath open skies. Forests provide this, intricate, breathing ecosystems where predator and prey exist in delicate balance.

When habitats shrink, that balance shifts. Yet where forests are allowed to stand, life continues.

Tigers are solitary wanderers, moving silently through dense vegetation, their striped coats dissolving into shadow. They are powerful, yes, but also elusive, cautious, deeply attuned to their surroundings. In the wild, their lives are shaped by territory, instinct, and the rhythms of the forest.

Watching one return to that rhythm is unforgettable.

Forest Deer Hunted By Tigers

Wildlife Hunted by Tigers

It made me realise that conservation is not always dramatic. Often, it is patient. Quiet. Muddy. Humid. It smells of earth and rain and animal musk. It is early mornings and long waits. It is hope carried carefully in human hands.

And sometimes, it is simply opening a gate and stepping back.

Do we want a silent world, one without the distant call of wild animals at dusk? Without the unseen movement in tall grass? Without the knowledge that somewhere beyond the trees, something magnificent still walks?

Perhaps our legacy is not in controlling the earth, but in choosing to protect what remains wild.

That day in the forest reminded me that small acts matter. That healing is possible. That release is possible. That renewal is possible.

Some memories do not fade.

The sound of her last rustle in the undergrowth still lingers.

WILD AND FREE

Written with respect for the forest and the life it sustains.

I have been in South Africa since December 2019, and so much has happened since then. At the beginning of the lockdown, I experienced fear, sadness, anxiety, feeling overwhelmed. Will it ever end? Will life be positively normal? Now it’s December 2020, and how my life has positively changed. A New Year begins.

Sometimes we have to leave our comfort zone to grow and make beautiful.

It’s Christmas eve 2020, and tomorrow I will visit my 85-year-old mother. She is never excited about Christmas but realises how grateful she is. At the end of November, I had to move my mother from her flat of 18 years at an old age centre, into frail care at another old age home. I find moving to a new house can be very stressful, imagine how much more it is for an 85-year-old. Leaving behind her friends and four cats, whom she had from kittens, was a huge adjustment for her. She often says she wishes to go “home”, as she misses her cats terribly. But I do believe it’s the lifestyle of independence she once had that she misses most. Moving my mother has made me realise how being in the moment and enjoying every minute of the day is so important, instead of wishing time to pass. Life is fragile. Let us nurture it.

Shannon Alder once said, “one of the foremost important things we’ll do on this earth, is to let our loved ones know that they’re not alone.”

For me, the new “normal” may be a time of acceptance and new challenges. To manoeuvre forward, embrace it and learn. We cultivate our memories through rituals, and daydreams, joyfully lost in our thoughts. Allow them to live alongside us, offering an everlasting  connection to loved ones lost, bringing comfort and a spontaneous spirit to life. It’s a time for empathy and taking note of my mother share her memories with meNostalgia is often the salvation for the aged; don’t let it fade away.

Helen Keller once said, “whatever we enjoy can’t be lost, and everyone that we love deeply becomes a part of us.”

As I enter into a new era, a new journey mindset, new challenges and personal growth, I keep my dreams alive, reflecting. Now is the time to adopt new approaches to a new life: Focusing on the four “M’s” – movement, mindfulness, mastery and meaningful social relationships. Speaking things into being, whether by prayer, journaling or observation. Creating balance through heart and mind. I can’t go back, and I can’t create through past experiences, only forward. Learning self-compassion, kindness, empathy, tenderness, forgiveness, a caring conscious living. Realising my fear and what is in my subconscious.  

How I have changed through these uncertain times! Attitude is everything, no matter what life throws at you. I have focused on my growth and not the situation, gaining more confidence in myself. I embraced this time of being in lockdown, becoming more accepting and resilient, with family support. The way to self-mastery: always remaining a student, keeping an open mind, and staying humble. Though there is pain, it’s how we relate to it, how we work with it.

 “Gift from the Ocean,” by Anne Morrow, she writes. “Loving someone doesn’t mean that we have to love them all the time, every minute of the day. Most of us demand this, and it’s not possible, even if we pretend to. Having little faith in the flow of life, love, and relationships, we are afraid it will never return. Insisting on permanency, duration, and continuity. In life and love, the only continuity is in growth, fluidity, and freedom, as the dancers are free, barely touching as they pass, but partners in the same pattern”.  

My goal is to achieve self-mastery, to become less influenced by outside influences. See how things are, not how they should be or could be. To have a more authentic life experience. Being in the moment, slowing down, embracing more immersive, curious, authentic, and interactive experiences. Building wellness, me-time, cultural experience, mindfulness, sustainability, and happiness into my life.

I have learned new things such as watercolour painting, journaling, and spending more time meditating, building my spiritual and physical fitness. Focusing on a healthy lifestyle and walking in nature. I can’t walk the new path if I am hanging onto the old. This new beginning is a time for emotional cleansing and rejuvenation.

We cannot escape time. We age, and life brings its joys and sorrows. Enjoy as many experiences as you can in life. Travel, engage with people along the way, experiencing their cultures, and indulging in many books. Life is about creating memories to sustain us through sad times and happy times of our lives. As we learn we progress through the journey mindset, learning how to survive what is to come. Let’s focus on the positive and practice gratitude every day.  

 VISHEN LAKHIANI once said. “Pushing ourselves into something new, allows us to discover a world of many opportunities. We’d most probably get hurt along the way, but amazingly once we heal, we’ll be somewhere we’ve never been before.” 

Born in 1917 and educated at Oxford University, Diana Athill was one of the great book editors of the twentieth century. She was also an excellent memoirist, as evidenced by her book, “Somewhere Towards the End.”

For those of us who demand answers to the meaning of life, Diana Athill didn’t mind not knowing it all. Diana died in 2019 at the age of 101.

Life is a journey, let us not forget to embrace it. Looking at the beauty of the world, lets’ take the journey and not focus on the destination.

Words from Sai Baba. “Life is a song, sing it. Life is a game, play it. Life is a challenge, meet it. Life is a dream, realize it. Life is a sacrifice, offer it. Life is love, enjoy it.”