Join me on a pre-dawn climb to Kawah Ijen in East Java, Indonesia, where blue flames flicker across the crater and the mountain appears to burn blue. At two in the morning, we climbed into darkness. The mountain seemed asleep. Only the crunch of volcanic gravel beneath our boots and the occasional beam of a headlamp broke the silence. Around us, the night swallowed everything. Then, without warning, the earth began to… Read More