Kalimantan Barat Indonesia. The Kapuas River moves slowly through the darkness like a living thing. I sat beside the river one humid evening in West Kalimantan, deep in Indonesian Borneo. A young local man began speaking quietly to me about the shamans of the interior forests. His voice carried the casual rhythm of ordinary conversation, but as the night deepened, his stories began to feel older than the river itself. He told… Read More